On Madison is constantly inspired by the stories of those iconic individuals that seem to possess an inner compass that constantly points them in the direction that is true to their passions (see Diana Vreeland blogpost and that of Tony Duquette).

Helena Rubenstein is the subject of a new exhibit, “Beauty is Power”, at the Jewish Museum in New York, which brings together art and objects from Rubenstein’s vast collection.   The title of the exhibition derives from Rubenstein’s determination to transform herself by force of will into a paragon of good taste and high style, all the while building a worldwide cosmetics brand and empire which afforded her to collect that which she loved.

For the design of her stores, Rubenstein turned to the some of the 20th Century’s most legendary designers.  Louis Sue designed her Paris apartment.  Emilio Terry designed her store in the Faubourg Saint-Honore.  Donald Deskey and later David Hicks all collaborated on Rubenstein projects.

As a collector, Rubenstein ventured far afield, often recognizing objects decades before others would appreciate their merits.  Her New York bedroom was furnished with a lucite sleigh bed illuminated with concealed fluorescent tubes.   “I like my own taste, good or bad,” she would say.  She bought what she liked, without benefit of consultation, and learned as she went along.

Marie Laurencin, Portrait of Helena Rubinstein, 1934.

Decades before post modernism would emerge, Rubenstein would pair art and objects from disparate periods, with nothing to unify them except her razor sharp eye.

Pablo Picasso, Portrait of Helena Rubinstein XIX 27-11-1955, 1955.

Ahead of her time, Rubenstein was not only the first “self-made woman magnate of modern times,” but understood the power of what is now commonly referred to as “building a brand.”  Her wardrobe, her homes, her collections became advertisements and sent a message to all women that you could invent yourself and be anything you wanted to be.

Hers is a message to everyone, women especially, that self-confidence is the ultimate power trip.